By G. Vinuri Udeshi Perera
Every APU student has searched up Beppu at least once before they arrived here and read that Beppu is known as the "City of Onsen". So, what exactly are Onsen and what do they mean to Beppu? APU's Professor Shozo Kumai of the language department, an Onsen Meister, has generously shared his knowledge with us. Let's educate ourselves a little about our town, shall we?
What is an Onsen Really?
Onsen (温泉・おんせん), as you all probably know by now, is the Japanese word for hot spring. According to the 'Onsen Act' enacted in 1948 (Yes, there's an Onsen Act), an Onsen is defined as hot water, mineral water, steam and other gases (excluding natural gas containing hydrocarbons as the main component) that are discharged from the ground which have temperatures above 25 °C.
While this may differ from country to country, The Japanese ministry recognizes ten different types of onsen. Which are;
Simple Hot Springs (Usually Alkaline) (単純温泉・たんじゅんおんせん)
Carbon Dioxide Springs (二酸化炭素泉・にさんかたんそせん)
Hydrogen Carbonate Springs (炭酸水素塩泉・たんさんすいそえんせん)
Chloride Springs (塩化物泉・えんかぶつせん)
Iodine Springs (含よう素泉・がんようそせん)
Sulfate Spring (硫酸塩泉・りゅうさんえんせん)
Iron Springs (含鉄泉・がんてつせん)
Sulfur Springs (硫黄泉・いおうせん)
Acidic Springs (酸素泉・さんせいせん)
Radioactive Springs (放射能泉・ほうしゃのうせん) [*Don't worry, these springs aren't radioactive enough to harm you. You can still get into one if you're interested]
Why are Onsen so Popular in Japan?
Onsen are mostly popular in Japan as a relaxing getaway. However, there are quite a few health benefits attached to them as well. The heat of the onsen increases blood circulation and is said to have detoxifying effects on the body. Furthermore, the buoyancy relaxes muscles and joints while the high water pressure has massage-like effects. And as onsen water has minerals in it, there are different effects based on the type of onsen.
Other reasons for the popularity of onsen include being able to mentally refresh oneself with a change of scenery and being surrounded by nature.
So, Why is Beppu so Special?
Why is Beppu the city of onsen you ask? Why that's an easy question. There are 2,909 hot spring vents within the city which account for more than 10% of Japan's Onsen. Furthermore, statistics from Beppu City Hall show that more than 130,000 tons of
hot spring water gush from these vents every day, which makes it the second-largest amount of hot spring water discharged in the world (the first being Yellowstone, USA), and the largest amount in Japan. So, it is the #1 hot spring destination in Japan.
According to the most recent investigations, in Beppu, you'll be able to find seven of these ten types of onsen, with the exception of Carbon Dioxide Springs, Iodine Springs and Radioactive Springs. This is very rare as usually only around four types of onsen would be found in a single area. The only other such exceptional case would be Noboribetsu City in Hokkaido. However, as most of Beppu's onsen are privately owned it is difficult to confirm the existence of other types of onsen. So, next time you visit an onsen, why not try and find out which type it belongs to?
How did Beppu become the City of Onsen?
Contrary to what you might think, Beppu wasn't always the City of Onsen. Although Beppu's Onsen are among a few of the oldest in Japan and have been mentioned in both the Fudoki (風土記) and Kojiki (古事記), two of Japan's most ancient texts, it wasn't always the booming tourist destination that it is today. That only happened towards the end of the Meiji era, all because of the efforts of one man.
Ever looked at this statue in front of Beppu station and wondered who he was? This is Kumahachi Aburaya. The man responsible for Beppu's Onsen tourism.
During his time Mr Aburaya took great efforts to improve tourism in Beppu. A few of his contributions to the cause being the initiation of the ferry to Osaka and the establishment of the Kamenoi Bus Corporation (which were the first buses in japan to cater for tourists by having bus guides who would explain the city's history).
Further, he was also the first to initiate the 'Hell Tour' or 'jigoku meguri'. Before Beppu's Hell Tour was initiated 'Jigoku' (地獄) was a general term for extremely hot onsen. However, after the Hell Tour was popularized, Jigoku became synonymous with Beppu's Hells.
Some Things to Know About Onsen and a Few Fun Things to Try
Let's start with some warnings Professor Kumai had for APU students;
Although onsen are popular for their health benefits, there are some onsen that you should not enter if you have certain illnesses. So make sure to do your research before you go to an onsen.
Do NOT enter an onsen after drinking alcohol. This is very dangerous and at worst could result in sudden heart failure.
Now for some fun things you could try while you're in Beppu;
Jimoto-no-Onsen or Jimosen (地元の温泉)
There are quite a few community onsen, or jimosen, around Beppu which you can join by paying a monthly membership fee of around 1000-2000 yen. These onsen are maintained by the locals and one can be found in almost every residential area. This membership allows you to use the onsen however many times you want per day, so it's highly recommended for those of you who love the onsen experience.
Why not try becoming an Onsen Meijin?
Much like Sado, Kendo and Judo, here in Beppu, you have Onsendo. If you purchase a 'Spaport' at the Beppu City Hall and collect the stamps for 88 of 150 the onsen mentioned inside it, which you can do by visiting each onsen, and return it to the city hall, you will be given a commemoratory black towel (which much like the black belt in karate and judo, signifies expertise) as well as the title 'Onsen Meijin' to signify that you have become a seasoned onsen goer.
Hope everyone learned something about Beppu and its onsen, and can be proud of the city we live in. Happy onsen hunting!
Professor Shozo Kumai is a member of the language department of APU. He has attended the Onsen-Gaku course conducted by Mizobe Gakuen (Kannawa) in 2017 and attained the title of Onsen Meister.
Thank You Professor Kumai for sharing your insight and expertise!
Further Reading:
Ministry of Environment (only available in Japanese)
Beppu City
Beppu Onsen-Geo Museum (only available in Japanese)
Image Sources: